Originally we had planned to stay in Oxford and explore the nooks and crannies of the city that we haven’t yet had time to see. But every local we have encountered since being here has recommended seeing Cornwall before seeing any other attraction in the UK – before Bath, Edinburgh, the Lake District – which is saying quite a bit and we reasoned that Oxford will be here next weekend for exploring (which was true). Being Americans, naturally we chose the favorite American mode of transportation and by lunch on Thurday we had booked ourselves a rental car (you're thinking dangerous? we thought adventurous. and cheap.), and the only affordable B&B in Cornwall, which was located in Tintagel (this will be a bit humorous later). So we set out Friday morning to pick up our car with little else planned for the weekend than to get safely to Tintagel (and back home), ask the locals for exploring advice, and to see a supposedly beautiful national forest in Devon on the way home Sunday afternoon. Little did we know that this minimalist plan was ripe for adventures we never imagined.
The first task we encountered was quite obviously re-learning how to drive: on the wrong side of very narrow and windy roads in a tiny car with crazy Brits whizzing by at ungodly speeds and bicyclists to avoided everywhere. Not to mention the unhelpful road signs that are hidden behind excessive shrubbery and the involved directions to get anywhere. For example, part of our directions to Tintagel included:
10. At Wolvercote Roundabout, take the 2nd exit onto Northern Bypass Rd/A40 heading to Cheltenham/Witney. Continue to follow A40. Go through 4 roundabouts, 31.1 mi
11. Turn left onto A436. Go through 2 roundabouts, 6.5 mi
12. At the roundabout, take the 2nd exit onto A417 heading to M5/Gloucester/Chelt'm (Central)/Stroud/A46/Brockworth/Hucclecote, 3.3 mi
13. Take the exit toward Brockworth Roundabout, 0.2 mi
14. Keep right at the fork, follow signs for Bristol/M5
That’s nearly as bad as country directions in the U.S. (turn onto CR 218, follow it past 5 large trees, then turn right past the bridge. If the dirt road curves to a sharp left, and you cross a cattle guard, you’ve gone too far so turn around).
Aside from being nervous for our very lives, we made it to Tintagel with very little mishap and in one piece. Once we checked into the B&B, we walked down to the coast to find that not only was the coast breathtaking, but Tintagel is actually the site of the castle ruins of the alleged King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table. We came to Tintagel only because we had a place to rest our heads, and found it to be one of the most beautiful corners of God's earth with a castle to boot. Coincidence? I think not. We were so inspired by the cliffs, the waves, the salty air and the hiking trails that we decided a sunrise hike Saturday morning was the best way to see the countryside and the coast. We were right. After waking up at 5:30 and making our way to one of the points on the edge of a cliff in the dark, we were treated to the most glorious sunrise that has ever graced our eyes. Literally. The fog rolled over hills and as the sun rose it changed from gray to blue to pink and back to a misty gray. The clouds were sprawled across the sky, thick over the land and thinner over the water. The light that came through the clouds changed from pink to orange to gold. And in those moments when the clouds were gold, I was convinced that at any moment trumpets could sound and Jesus would come through the sunrise beckoning us home. Wild, but that's how beautiful it was.
After that sunrise, it could only be a good day.
We headed back up to town for a filling English breakfast and then began our drive to Lizard, the southernmost point in England. About 3 miles from town (which is a significant distance when you can only drive 30 mph on windy roads), we got a flat tire and our wonderful friends at Enterprise failed to put a spare in the car and we failed to check before leaving. But we weren't going to let that squelch our adventurous spirits. We made it to Lizard and took a walk to the coast while waiting for the tow truck. And we were greeted again with beauty. The late morning mist and salty air created a gray haze that covered the area, which made the black rocks look darker, the crashing waves more ominous, the sea more gray rather than blue, and in general created an atmosphere which reminded me that, try as we might, man will never conquer nature.
Our coastal exploration was then interrupted by a trip to Helston for a tire change. We feared for the cost of the tire and possible damage to the rim, but again we were blessed and a single new tire was all we needed. Lessons learned: always check for a spare before leaving, and don't drive too close to the outer edge of English country roads - the potholes are detrimental to tires.
We returned to the coast and walked all along the rim, breaking in the middle to take cream tea (tea with scones, clotted cream and jam) overlooking the waters. This time, the sun was out and we were able to watch the sunset over the ocean. Looking west over the waters, I realized I was the closest to America I will ever be until my return home. And suddenly, I felt very far away. You know, travel in these modern days is strange because communication is hardly hindered though you may be thousands and thousands of miles apart. And because of easy communication, the physical barriers of distance, space and time are much harder to respect. So I greatly appreciated being able to see for miles without resting my eyes on civilization because I finally felt like I was in not just another culture, but another land.
Sunday morning we toured the castle ruins in Tintagel, more cliffs and the church that has been there for 1400 years. There is something deeply healing about the wind that blows around you, and through your hair, when standing on the cliff shores of the northern seas. The wind at the top of the cliffs is intense, insistent and invigorating. It doesn’t cut through your skin, chase you like mad or assault your face, but it envelops you and beckons you to experience the mysterious call of the wild. And as I sat in the wind, I couldn't help but think that this place was the embodiment of adventure, romance and mystery, so much mystery. And furthermore, that since God created it, these must be aspects of His heart to some degree. I found myself wondering if He doesn't beckon us into a relationship like this, one where there is always something new to be learned of God and something new He is always revealing to us. A relationship where adventure never dies. A relationship grounded in His love and laws, which flourishes in the ever changing course of life.
In short, the weekend was a combination of us making whim decisions that always turned out wonderful. I am inclined to think that God knew each of us needed a weekend to refresh our souls before term started and so He blessed our every move. It was a weekend I'll forever cherish, and forever laugh about with the girls. Oh, and I'll forever remember that driving in England is the best way to get off the beaten path and see the country.
Grace and peace to you all this Friday!
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